Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Quetico: Slugs and Solitude
by wyopaddler

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 08/14/2017
Entry & Exit Point: Quetico
Number of Days: 21
Group Size: 2
Part 4 of 7
Day 10 Wednesday, August 23

Brent to Suzanette 12.49 miles and 2 portages (51R-21R)

Well, we got up and had a Mountain House Breakfast Skillet and tortillas for breakfast. Can’t say I recommend it. It’s ok once a year I guess, but we always save it until last so that’s gotta tell ya something. I think I’m done with it forever. The sausage is never quite hydrated and it has the consistency of vomit, but besides that it is fine. Maybe salsa would help?

Anyway, we dried up camp a bit (it never really rained in the night) and launched at 930am eastward on Brent. We made good time down Brent fishing in a couple of narrow spots with little action. We never did see yesterday’s travelers. We moved quickly to the end of the lake and fished the inlet a bit where we had good action with bass though they were mostly small. Tony caught a pike and lowered his standards far enough to use the fish grippers :)
We crossed the short portage (51R) into a no name pond along the river (very scenic) and then paddled across to the short portage (21R) into Suzanette.
Again, we had good action with small bass here. There was no size to them but it was very amusing. We had lunch near the portage among the boulders and rushing, swirling water. We wanted to fish up the narrow arm to the lake but of course at this time the wind decided to blow making the fishing impossible.
We checked out a couple of camps and ended up on a little point near the NW end of the lake not far from the portage to Conmee. We set up camp and discussed going for a swim but when the wind died down opted for fishing instead.
We had some action with bass on an underwater reef not far from camp but none in the NW bay of the lake. We headed back to camp around 800pm for quick dinner of Red Curry Noodles with BackPacker’s Pantry Crème Brulee (This is their best dessert.) by a pleasant little fire. It’s cooler tonight and still. We wore our puffies and enjoyed the mosquitoless evening. We’re halfway through our trip and get to break into the second half of our rations tomorrow. Big Day!

Day 11, Thursday August 24 Hump Day Suzanette to Burt 9.89 miles and two portages (29R-39R) We are exactly halfway through our trip and enjoying our first completely sunny and nearly windless day (after the mist burned off of course.)

The night was clear and cold. We slept later than usually until the squirrels finally insisted we get up by dropping cones and chattering near the tent. Everything was wet with a heavy dew and given that our camp faced west, resistant to drying. We packed up slowly over hot drinks and oatmeal (Ya, we eat a lot of oatmeal, but it’s Tony’s favorite.)
We launched at the crack of 1000am and fished our way to the Burt portage catching small to medium bass and drifting along while being entertained by an otter. We had lunch near the second portage fishing a deep, clear pool there. We could see a HUGE bass there but it was disinterested. Tony caught a pike and two large bass, while a pike grabbed my lure and bit it off. We caught a few bass fishing the narrows into Burt but nothing big. We looked for the Burt pictographs but couldn’t locate them. This end of Burt is very scenic with islands and rocks popping up grandly.
We looked at a couple of small camps then chose one around 300pm on an island not far from the portage into Marj. It’s a very nice point with large boulders and swimming rocks. There is a large open area under the trees but not a lot of flat tent pads. (We are very picky about tent pads.) Feeling very grimy from the last few days we took a leisurely swim and rinsed our clothes and hung them to dry. It is a big day for us as we broke into part two of our food ration so we have some new and different treats. At 500pm we headed out fishing hoping to hook an eater size for dinner. Tony trolled up a couple of bass and released them and then around 630pm I caught a nice walleye near the pictographs. (At least we think we saw them.)
We quickly paddled back to camp for a walleye and wild rice dinner as the sun set. A few dark chocolate-salted cashews made a fine cap to the meal. And we enjoyed another camp with very few mosquitoes, though we did see a few around 830pm. Today was a glorious day in the Quetico.

Day 12. Friday August 25 Burt to Marj to Joyce to Kahshapiwi 5.97 miles and 5 portages (41R-37R-40R-116R-141R)

The squirrel alarm woke us up at about 600am. The skies were clear and there was a bit of mist on the lake but not much dew. The sun hit us as we had hot drinks and oatmeal (Yup again, every other day in fact.) and looked at the route for the day. We’re heading over to Kahshawpiwi and from there we will loop north. The first portage into Marj was uneventful (Having 30 pounds less of food now that the trip is half over makes the packs noticeably lighter.) and we scooted over to the next portage were Tony caught a handful of bass. The next portage (37R) started of innocently enough but ended in 25 feet of “enchanted rock garden,” meaning you had to boulder hop or wade in crotch deep dark and muddy water. Tony danced gracefully across carrying a pack and the boat, while I moved cautiously and tried not to break my leg. “How does he do that? Must be the mechanical knees…” The third portage (40R) brought us to Joyce and we paddled to the mid lake island camp for a snack. It was here I discovered someone had left a soggy pair of Vasque heavy hiking boots.

If these are yours you should go back and get them. I’m good for picking up micro trash and burning your TP & wet wipes, but I’m too old to be carrying your 10 pound, wet leather boots out for you. ( I truly feel bad about leaving them.) Next, we took on the 116R portage into the no name lake between Joyce and Kahshawpiwi. This portage features a deteriorating half log boardwalk designed to lure you into stepping in the middle of the logs and breaking your tibia.
I advise that you tiptoe on the edges. The little lake was a pleasant paddling interlude with a narrows section and a fun little sneak through the boulders that required some careful maneuvering.
The last 141R portage kinda kicked our butts or at least made our legs real tired. It involves crossing two ridges with a nice mucky swamp in the middle and ending in a steep downhill section to the lake. We sat lakeside and let the west wind cool our sweaty selves. The day was young but we decided to look for a camp and quit early for swimming and life maintenance chores. Kinda a rest day except after hiking 4 miles with gear and a boat on your head ? We set up camp on a high point across from the portage that has a long view south down the lake. The wind continued from the NE but never reached more than a medium strength. We went for a refreshing swim and aired out all our gear in the sun and breeze. I laid in the tent for an hour just relaxing while Tony caught a few bass from shore. For dinner, I baked a Tamale Pie which we both agreed was a little too spicy.
After dinner, we enjoyed a small fire in our puffies as a sliver of a moon rose and the breeze kept the mosquitos at bay. I’ve been in the Quetico for 12 days and I’m finally starting to relax.