It's a soggy morning as it rained for the better part of the evening. According to our weather radio todays forecast is supposed to be a mixed bag. Never-the-less, we decide to make one last fairly aggressive daytrip. In my conversation with Austin (the forest service ranger) the other day; I had asked him about the legality of doing a daytrip loop from Duncan to Rose, Daniels, West Bearskin and re-entering the BWCA again at Duncan. He told me that since I had a Duncan permit it wouldn’t be much cause for concern; that the rule is more for Daniels permit holders who want to access Stairway Portage Falls without doing the ‘Long Portage.’

Shortly after heading out, I realize I forgot my camera. Fortunately, we’re still on Duncan, so we do an abrupt about face and return to camp to grab it. I must admit, my initial impression of our campsite (and specifically the boulder strewn landing) wasn't too favorable. However, after having spent the past few days here, it seems to have grown on us as I pull right in and Aurora jumps out/in without missing a beat. It’s one last visit to the falls and use of Stairway portage as we maneuver around a group swimming at the Rose Lake landing.

There is a cooling breeze out on Rose that, fortuitously, is pushing us eastward across the lake. We encounter yet another group of people swimming at the first campsite east of Stairway portage and have a brief conversation as we drift by. The next site (#651) is vacant, and Aurora wants to check it out and take a break.

This is a spectacular site complete with its own small beach, well sheltered by overhanging shoreline cedars. There’s even a fallen log here that serves as a comfortable bench in which to contemplate the rugged Canadian peaks across the lake. From here the site stretches back to the west and a less convenient landing, passing by several excellent tent pads. While very open and airy, the shoreline cedars provide a true sense of privacy and protection with just enough openings to allow clear looks at the lake and allow breezes through. Aurora is already planning our next trip, and this will be our destination campsite! We linger here before continuing our journey.

The further east we get down the lake, the pushier the waves get. Fortunately, it’s basically a free ride and we are making great progress. Since we are keeping reasonably close to shore, my only concern is keeping a sharp eye out for partially submerged boulders that may catch the Black Pearl. Rose Lakes rugged beauty is on full display as we are washed ever eastward.

It’s Aurora who actually points out the landing to the ‘Long Portage.’ (grand portage neuf) The landing is a bit smaller than I recall but, there is no doubt this is it. I clip Aurora’s PFD to the Black Pearl so she can more comfortably heft her pack onto her back. She then leads the way down the flat trail.

From my trip report: THE FALL FALLS AND OVERLOOKS TOUR- "The reason the trail from Daniels to Rose is now in such exemplary shape can be attributed to the fact that the path runs over the old (long since abandoned) logging railroad bed. The significance of this old rail line with respects to shaping many important features in this section of the BWCA cannot be overstated. From its’ terminus at Rose lake the line ran SE then traced the eastern shore of Daniels lake, (this is now the Daniels Lake Hiking Trail) before heading towards Clearwater Lake.

There were several spurs in the Clearwater/Caribou Lake area which are now also portions of portage trails. Then the line meandered towards Poplar Lake before turning SE. From there it headed towards the Twin lakes. This is now the Lima road that serves the Morgan, Ram & Bower Trout EP’s. Then it cut over towards Two Island Lake and ran west. This is now the gravel road called The Grade. Brule, Homer, Baker & Sawbill are all served from this road. This doesn’t even take into account the non – BWCA areas it opened up."

There is a diminutive creek gurgling alongside the trail, and Aurora is enticed into dropping her pack and exploring this shaded watery wonderland. As she deftly hops from boulder to boulder, I come to the realization of why she is so fascinated with frogs and toads. Even with a fresh application of bug spray, the mosquitos prove to be amazingly resilient and force a premature halt to this pit stop.

As we continue, the forest pulls back from the trail and flies start becoming an issue. Next, we encounter some beaver activity and re-enter the Black Pearl for a 35-yard paddle to hook up with dry trail again. The junction of the Daniels spur is our next rest stop, and a trio of young adventures emerges from the Rove lake trail and passes by on their way to Rose. Finally, we arrive at the boulder laden landing on Daniels Lake where the wind is whipping up some rolling waves.

This is as hard as we’ve had to paddle on this trip. The wind is right in our face as we sluggishly work our way southwest down the eastern shoreline of Daniels. There are some ugly looking clouds moving in our direction so, campsite #670 provides an opportune safe haven to hole up at; while we let the inclement weather pass.

The landing is a rocky mess but, there is a helpful cedar tree hanging out just above the water level to aid the wary canoeist. The site is incredibly exposed, and I haul the Black Pearl down the wide hiking trail (that runs right through camp) to a more sheltered location. There is an enormous white pine stump that Aurora is fascinated with and crawls up on as I look around a bit. The wind really starts whistling and we dig our rain gear out of Aurora’s pack. We hunker down just up the hiking trail as the rain lets loose. The rain only lasts a few minutes and the wind gradually dies down soon thereafter.

Amazingly the lake, which only a few minutes ago had harrowing whitecaps, is now only offering up little more than a ripple. However, as we paddle towards the West Bearskin portage, the wind does gain some intensity and makes the trip down the lake a bit of a workout. On the map, Daniels doesn’t look that big but, fighting the wind here today makes it seem like it’s Brule or Basswood. As we pass the mid lake island, the rockslide on the western shore of Daniels comes into view and indicates we are getting close as the portage is located just south of this landmark.

There’re remnants of an old rock crib here that Aurora walks out on while I get the Black Pearl pulled to shore. The trail climbs up out of Daniels before leveling off to a nice well-worn path that you would expect for an entry point portage. Aurora recalls the expansive landing on West Bearskin as she used this portage last year with her Mother.

West Bearskin is bustling with activity as there are a wide variety of watercraft out and about. The Duncan Lake portage isn’t too far away but, being front end light as we are, the wind has a maddening propensity to grab the canoe and quickly push us off course if I Iet my guard down. Still, we arrive at the landing without any serious delay.

Back on Duncan, Aurora wants us to paddle over to see (from a safe distance!) if the swan egg has hatched. It hasn’t. Although, I'm glad our bumbling intrusion the other day didn't scare the parents off. So, we head back to camp thankful for having safely completed another fun day trip. I can't say enough how impressed I am with Aurora today. Although her pack was probably only 2/3 full; putting Stairway, the long portage and a couple others behind her in the same daytrip is still quite the accomplishment for a 9 year old.

Aurora decides to roast some marshmallows after supper and suggests I go relax in the hammock while she tends to the fire. I am aroused from my groggy slumber by the rumble of thunder. Thinking the hammock is not the best place to be in an approaching storm, I crawl out and join Aurora by our newly refurbished kitchen area.

While we do get sprayed with some late evening showers it doesn’t last that long or amount to much. However, we get an awesome view of the storm clouds passing over and Aurora get’s some cool pictures while unsuccessfully trying to capture a shot of the lightening.

~Duncan Lake, Rose Lake, Daniels Lake, Bearskin Lake