So we go through Jitterbug and Ahsub lakes and portage into Disappointment. There’s 9 sites on the lake so surely one will be open. I start off on the big lake and find the first three are taken. I then run into a large canoe with 3 guys also looking for a site. They had come from the other way with no luck. They said the site next to the last portage is open but didn’t look good so they passed on it.

Off I went with a little more urgency in my paddle hoping that last site would still be open. I find it and it’s vacant! It’s in a shallow bay and might be buggy. Beggars can't be choosers so I take it and get set up quickly because of the forecast. We settle in with a perfectly calm sunset until dark. No bugs and I gotta think it's because of the low water up here all summer. In the hammock after dark I hear faint rumblings. The wind can be heard gusting through tree tops far away. A little after this it starts to Drizzle…. The rumbling is more frequent and gets louder.....

Disappointment Lake Campsite. Bracing for the storm.

Thursday September 17th

It stormed hard overnight. I think being in the bay and fairly sheltered on 3 sides kept me out of the wind. I could hear it blowing in the trees but never felt it. In the morning all was wet. I needed a bath but it was shallow and mucky around the landing so I decided to take a bath in the woods. I filled all my containers and dry bags from the lake and hauled it all to a semi clearing with a soft pine duff floor. I got buck naked and rinsed down, soaped up and rinsed again. Oh yes! WOOO! That was cold and great. Now I’m ready for civilization.

Packed up, I head out on a breezy sunny morning and made the long 140 rod portage into Snowbank. It was basically a walk in the park as it sees much use every year. I was in good shape now and my food barrel was almost empty. The real challenge is crossing massive Snowbank Lake to the parking lot at the entry point. The wind is now in my face and there are occasional whitecaps.

I was ok until I passed the big island and was fully exposed to the westerly winds sweeping over the lake. I was quartering into the whitecaps now and busting my butt to the landing. I passed close to a small island and I could see something white through the bushes near shore. I paddled a little more and saw a huge bald eagle tearing at a fish it held in its talons. I was close, maybe 15 yards from shore but it was so busy it didn’t notice me. Then it did! It suddenly raised up and that massive 7 foot wingspan flapped into the wind and the giant bird floated off with the breeze and a foot long smallmouth bass clutched underneath. So cool and a perfect way to finish the trip!

I made the dock exhausted from fighting the wind. There were three middle aged couples just getting ready to start their annual trip together. They asked if I would take a group pic of them. I noticed how clean their clothes were and they didn’t seem tired at all. It’s how we all start our trips and slowly we change over a week or longer into dirty, ragged, bearded beasts. Ok, that's a bit of an exaggeration but let's just say I'm glad I somewhat showered.

Down the twenty minute Fernberg Rd. takes me into Ely Minnesota. The tourists cram the sidewalks and cars and trucks with canoes on top line the main drag. Back to the hustle and bustle it is. It’s kind of like waking from a beautiful dream.

Epilogue

It was a different kind of trip for me in that I spent so much time at 2 sites. Usually I'm on the move much more and typically travel far and make 5-6 camps. I purposefully wanted to slow down and relax more this time. It was a real good trip. This "Hybrid" of going solo really suits me. Part with company, and part solo with dog. I'll look to do more adventures like this in the future.

Stew took this pic of an eagle skeleton found when portaging from Thomas Lake to the South Arm of Knife Lake.

After dropping son Ben off at the airport, He returned to spend the week at William and Hall Outfitters. He's been a long time customer of theirs and helped around the cabins along with going on a tow ride with another party. Another friend in the area owns a small plane and invited Stew to go for a ride. Not a bad vacation in the beautiful north woods of Minnesota.

Pic courtesy of Stew

Side note: When I got to the Snowbank parking lot I was putting the canoe on top of the jeep when a silver car rolls up and parks behind me. I look and - IT'S STEW! There's some great timing for ya. He was just coming to see if I got out ok. Pretty good dude that Stew is.